Comprehensive Guide: How To Install Cedar Shingle Siding For Lasting Performance
Installing cedar shingle siding requires a precise layering technique known as the weather lap, which ensures that water is shed away from the building envelope. By maintaining proper exposure measurements and utilizing corrosion-resistant fasteners, you create a durable, moisture-resistant barrier that allows the wood to breathe while protecting the structural integrity of your home.
Preparation Requirements and Structural Planning
Before beginning the installation of cedar shingles, you must ensure the building envelope is prepared to manage moisture. Cedar is a natural, organic material that reacts to humidity levels; therefore, the substrate must be a solid, well-draining surface. Proper installation hinges on the integration of a drainage plane or house wrap to prevent capillary action from pulling moisture into the wall cavity.
- Essential Tools and Hardware:
- Pneumatic siding nailer or high-quality stainless steel hand nails (ring-shank is mandatory for holding power).
- Circular saw with a fine-finish blade for cutting shingles to length.
- Chalk line and a 4-foot level for establishing layout markers.
- Galvanized or stainless steel fasteners (3D or 4D size depending on shingle thickness).
- Tape measure and speed square.
- Protective gear including impact-rated safety glasses and hearing protection.
- Essential Materials:
- Grade A, Number 1 Red or White Cedar shingles (taper-sawn or machine-grooved).
- High-performance synthetic building wrap (drainage matting is highly recommended for longevity).
- Corrosion-resistant flashing (PVC or stainless steel) for window and door openings.
- Estimated Duration and Complexity: A professional installer typically completes 100 square feet (one square) in three to five hours, depending on window density and architectural detailing. Expect a weekend for a DIY project on a standard elevation.
Sequential Installation Workflow for Cedar Shingle Siding
Step 1: Installing the Starter Course and Moisture Barrier
Apply a high-quality building wrap over your sheathing, ensuring all seams are taped and shingled (the top layer overlapping the bottom layer). Install a starter course of shingles at the foundation line. This first row should be doubled to prevent water from wicking into the bottom edges of the studs. Leave a quarter-inch gap between shingles in the starter course to allow for expansion.
Warning: Never use carbon steel fasteners. The natural tannins in cedar will react with carbon steel to cause black streaking (nail bleed) that permanently stains the wood. Always use 304 or 316-grade stainless steel nails.
Step 2: Establishing the Layout and Exposure Lines
Determine your exposure—the amount of each shingle visible on the wall. For standard 16-inch shingles, a 5-inch exposure is the industry standard. Use your chalk line to snap horizontal guidelines up the wall. If your layout does not align perfectly with window heads or sills, adjust the exposure slightly, but never exceed the manufacturer’s maximum recommended exposure to ensure sufficient overlap for weather protection.
Step 3: Installing the Main Field
Begin placing shingles along your guidelines. Each shingle should be fastened with two nails placed approximately one inch from the edge and about two inches above the butt line of the next course. By keeping fasteners at this height, the overlapping course will cover the nail heads. Ensure that the joints of the shingles in one course do not align with the joints in the course below or above; stagger your joints by at least 1.5 inches to maintain a consistent weather barrier.
Step 4: Finishing Corners and Architectural Details
Outside corners require a woven corner or the use of corner boards. For a classic aesthetic, use "laced" corners, where shingles overlap each other in an alternating pattern. For inner corners, utilize a vertical flashing strip behind the shingles. At the roofline, maintain a minimum two-inch gap between the shingles and the roof surface to prevent "wicking" where the wood meets the flashing.
Cedar Shingle Styles at Lester Mitchell blog
Material Selection and Performance Specifications
The following table outlines the correlation between shingle size, recommended weather exposure, and the standard fastener requirements for professional installations.
| Shingle Length | Recommended Exposure | Min. Nail Size | Fastener Pattern |
|---|---|---|---|
| 16 Inch (Fivex) | 3.5 to 5.0 Inches | 3D (1.25") | 2 per shingle |
| 18 Inch (Perfection) | 4.0 to 5.5 Inches | 4D (1.5") | 2 per shingle |
| 24 Inch (Royal) | 5.5 to 7.5 Inches | 5D (1.75") | 2 per shingle |
Common Site Failures and Field Fixes
- Root Cause: Excessive Nail Tension. If the nail head is driven into the surface of the wood, it creates a depression that collects water.
- Actionable Fix: Adjust the depth gauge on your pneumatic nailer so that the nail head sits flush with the surface of the shingle without crushing the fibers.
- Root Cause: Joint Alignment. When vertical seams align across multiple rows, water can reach the building wrap behind the siding.
- Actionable Fix: Immediately correct the layout by spacing joints at least 1.5 inches apart. If a section is already nailed, replace the shingles or inject an exterior-grade cedar sealant into the seam.
- Root Cause: Lack of Drainage. Trapped moisture behind the shingles leads to rot and fungal growth.
- Actionable Fix: Retroactively install a drainage mat system behind new shingles or ensure your building wrap is properly installed with an air gap.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to stain cedar shingles before or after installation?
It is highly recommended to pre-stain or pre-prime all sides of the shingles before installation. Factory-finishing ensures that the tongue-and-groove or overlapping areas are protected, preventing the wood from curling or checking as it expands and contracts.
How do I handle shingles around windows and doors?
You must integrate metal or plastic flashing at the head, jambs, and sill of every opening. Ensure the building wrap is tucked under the flashing at the head to keep water flowing away from the wall cavity rather than behind the window frame.
What is the purpose of the drainage plane?
The drainage plane is a critical component that allows air to circulate behind the siding. This air movement dries out the back of the cedar, extending the life of the wood and preventing moisture from penetrating the wall sheathing.
Can I install cedar shingles directly over old siding?
Yes, provided the existing siding is flat, solid, and structurally sound. You must install vertical furring strips to create a rainscreen gap, which ensures proper ventilation and prevents moisture buildup between the new and old layers.
Secure the beauty and longevity of your home by following these professional installation standards for cedar shingle siding. Contact our technical team today for assistance in selecting the highest-grade materials for your specific climate zone.
