Knitting How To Increase: The Definitive Guide To Increasing Stitches

Increasing stitches in knitting is an essential technique used to shape garments, add width, and create decorative lace patterns by turning a single stitch into two or more. Mastering both invisible increases like Make 1 (M1) and structural increases like Knit Front and Back (KFB) ensures clean stitch definitions and professional-grade shaping across any sweater, shawl, or hat project.

Pre-Operation & Equipment Checklist

Successful stitch shaping relies on proper tool selection, yarn management, and an understanding of fabric tension. When expanding your stitch count, the relationship between your needle size, yarn weight, and increase method dictates the final elasticity and neatness of the fabric.

• Essential Gear, Tools, and Materials:
  
  
  • A pair of knitting needles matching your project gauge (straight, circular, or double-pointed).
  • Smooth, non-split practice yarn in a light color (Worsted weight wool or acrylic blends work best for visibility).
  • Locking stitch markers to track shaping intervals and pattern repeats.
  • A tapestry needle for weaving in ends and verifying seam lines.
• Mandatory Prerequisite Knowledge and Standards:
  
  
  • Proficiency in basic knit (K) and purl (P) stitches.
  • Understanding of the running thread (the horizontal strand of yarn lying between stitches on the previous row).
  • Familiarity with left-leaning and right-leaning directional properties to maintain symmetry in garment shaping.
• Estimated Budget and Duration Benchmarks:
  
  
  • Equipment Cost: Zero additional cost if using existing project supplies; $5 to $15 for practice yarn and extra needles.
  • Learning Duration: 30 to 45 minutes of focused swatching to master the primary increase variations.

Step-by-Step Shaping Execution

Executing clean increases requires precision in needle placement and tension control. Follow these step-by-step procedures to integrate the most reliable increase methods into your knitting repertoire.

Step 1: Mastering the Knit Front and Back (KFB) Increase

The Knit Front and Back (KFB) is a visible, structural increase that creates a small, purl-like bar on the backside of the fabric. It is durable, easy to track, and frequently used in sock cuffs and top-down raglan sweater seams.

1. Knit the designated stitch normally through the front loop, but do not slip the original stitch off the left needle.
2. Insert the right needle into the back loop of the same stitch, entering from back to front.
3. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle and pull a new loop through the back loop.
4. Slip both loops off the left needle, successfully turning one stitch into two.

Pro-Tip: KFB is a slant-right increase. When used symmetrically for shaping (such as shawl borders), balance it on the opposite side of the garment with a Left Raised Increase or a lifted purl increase to maintain visual harmony.

Step 2: Executing the Make 1 Right (M1R) Invisible Increase

Make 1 Right is a slanted, virtually invisible increase that leans to the right. It is formed by lifting the horizontal strand between two stitches from back to front and knitting into the front of that loop.

1. Identify the horizontal bar (running thread) running between the last stitch worked on your right needle and the next stitch on your left needle.
2. Using the tip of your left needle, reach from the back to the front to lift that horizontal strand onto the left needle.
3. Insert your right needle into the front of this newly lifted strand from left to right.
4. Wrap the yarn and knit the strand through the front loop, tightening slightly to close any potential gap.

Warning: Avoid pulling the running thread too tightly during the pickup phase, as this restricts the needle and distorts the gauge of adjacent stitches.

Step 3: Executing the Make 1 Left (M1L) Invisible Increase

Make 1 Left is the structural counterpart to the M1R, leaning gracefully to the left. Paired together, M1R and M1L create mirrored, symmetrical shaping lines ideal for raglan increases and lace designs.

1. Locate the horizontal strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle.
2. Insert your left needle from the front to the back underneath the horizontal strand.
3. Insert your right needle into the back of this lifted strand from right to left (the strand will cross over the top of the needle, opening towards the back).
4. Wrap the yarn and knit the strand through the back loop to complete the stitch.

Step 4: Working Lifted Increases (RLI and LLI)

Right Lifted Increases (RLI) and Left Lifted Increases (LLI) anchor directly into the stitch rows below, providing a sturdy alternative to running-thread increases that resists loose tension issues.

1. For a Right Lifted Increase (RLI), locate the stitch two rows directly below the next stitch on your right needle. Insert your right needle into the right leg of that stitch from front to back.
2. Place that loop onto your left needle and knit it.
3. For a Left Lifted Increase (LLI), locate the stitch one row below the last stitch worked on the right needle, find the left leg of that stitch, and place it onto the left needle.
4. Knit that loop through the back loop to secure the new stitch.

Technical Comparison of Increase Methods

Selecting the right increase method depends on whether you require an invisible stitch, a decorative design element, or a sturdy edge for seaming. Use the following breakdown to choose the optimal technique for your specific knitting project.

Common Shaping Errors and Field Fixes

Even experienced knitters occasionally encounter tension inconsistencies or count errors when shaping garments. Recognizing these pitfalls prevents structural failure in complex projects.

• Root Cause: Large, unsightly holes appearing around Make 1 (M1R/M1L) increases.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Ensure you are knitting into the correct leg of the lifted strand (front loop for M1R, back loop for M1L). Twisting the strand correctly during the knit process closes the base of the stitch and eliminates gaps.
• Root Cause: Accidental stitch count reduction or expansion after working a KFB.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Count your stitches immediately after completing a KFB row. Beginners frequently forget to drop the original loop off the left needle after working the back loop, resulting in a dropped stitch or incorrect count.
• Root Cause: Asymmetrical garment shaping or slanted seam lines.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Audit your increase pairs. Ensure that right-leaning increases (M1R, KFB, RLI) are placed on the right side of the shaping marker, and left-leaning increases (M1L, LLI) are placed on the left side of the marker.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the easiest knitting increase for beginners?

The Knit Front and Back (KFB) is universally considered the easiest increase for beginners because it uses the familiar knit stitch motion. You work into the front and then the back of the same stitch without needing to manipulate running threads between stitches.

How do I know whether to use an M1R or an M1L increase?

Use M1R (Make 1 Right) when your shaping needs to lean toward the right edge of your work, and use M1L (Make 1 Left) when shaping needs to lean toward the left. Pairing them symmetrically on opposite sides of a center point creates balanced, professional-looking garment seams.

Why do my increases leave holes in my knitting?

Holes typically occur when working Make 1 increases if the lifted horizontal strand is not twisted properly when knitted. Twisting the strand closes the base of the new stitch, preventing air pockets and loose fabric gaps.

Can I increase multiple stitches at the same time?

Yes, you can use cable cast-on methods or backward loop cast-ons at the end of a row or in the middle of a work to cast on multiple stitches at once. For internal multi-stitch increases within a row, specialized knit-cast-on techniques are used.

How do I keep track of my increase rows in a pattern?

Use locking stitch markers placed directly into the increase row, or maintain a tally on a row counter. Checking your stitch count at the end of every shaping section prevents cumulative counting errors.

Elevate your handcrafted garments today by practicing these professional increase techniques on your next custom sweater or shawl project.