How To Mount Antlers: The Definitive DIY Taxidermy Guide

Successfully mounting antlers requires a precise sequence of biological stabilization, skull plate geometry correction, and secure mechanical anchoring to a mounting plaque. By following professional taxidermy standards for degreasing and leather wrapping, you can transform a raw harvest into an archival-quality display that resists pests, odors, and structural failure for decades.

Essential Equipment and Biological Preparation

Before beginning the physical assembly, you must ensure the antlers and the attached skull plate are chemically stable. Biological tissue left on the bone will eventually rot, attracting dermestid beetles or emitting unpleasant odors. The preparation phase focuses on removing all soft tissue and neutralizing the bone’s natural oils.

Professional Tool and Material Checklist

• Cutting Tools: A fine-tooth hacksaw or an oscillating multi-tool is required for precise skull plate shaping.
• Cleaning Agents: 40-volume hydrogen peroxide (cream or liquid) and Borax (sodium borate) for curing the bone and skin remnants.
• Fasteners: 2-inch and 3-inch wood screws, preferably with a decorative finish or for use with countersink bits.
• Mounting Base: A solid wood plaque (Oak, Walnut, or Cherry) with a pre-routed edge.
• Finishing Materials: High-quality leather or upholstery-grade vinyl, decorative upholstery tacks (brass or antique finish), and polyester batting or floral foam for shaping the mount's "brow."
• Safety Gear: Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and a particulate mask when cutting bone.

Foundational Benchmarks

• Estimated Duration: 4 to 6 hours of active labor, excluding 48 hours for chemical drying.
• Budget Range: $40–$100 depending on wood quality and leather selection.
• Curing Standard: The skull plate must be completely dry and white (calcified) before it touches the wooden plaque to prevent moisture transfer and wood warping.

Professional Workflow for Antler Mounting

Step 1: Harvesting and Cleaning the Skull Plate

The goal of this step is to isolate the antlers on a manageable piece of bone. You must cut the skull plate so it remains as a single, sturdy unit connecting the two antlers.

1. Use a hacksaw to cut from the back of the skull through the eye sockets. Ensure the cut is level; a slanted cut will result in an asymmetrical mount.
2. Remove all skin and brain matter. Scrape the bone clean using a dull knife or a wire brush.
3. Simmer (do not boil) the skull plate in water mixed with a small amount of dish soap for 30–60 minutes. High heat can cause the bone to become brittle, while the soap aids in degreasing.
4. After simmering, remove remaining tissue and submerge the bone portion in 40-volume hydrogen peroxide.

Warning: Avoid getting hydrogen peroxide on the antlers themselves, as it will bleach the natural brown color. Only the white bone of the skull plate should be treated.

Step 2: Leveling and Shaping the Bone

Once the bone is clean and dry, it rarely sits flat against a plaque. You must "plane" the bottom of the skull plate to ensure a flush fit.

1. Place the skull plate on a flat workbench to check for wobbling.
2. Use a wood rasp or a coarse-grit sanding block to grind down the high spots on the underside of the bone.
3. Target a "shield" or "heart" shape for the bone plate. This makes the subsequent leather wrapping much easier.
4. Drill two pilot holes through the thickest part of the skull plate, typically just behind the antler pedicles (the bony base of the antlers).

Pro-Tip: Always countersink your pilot holes. This allows the screw heads to sit below the surface of the bone, preventing unsightly bumps once the leather cover is applied.

Step 3: Forming the Internal Core

Since the natural skull is often thin or missing sections after being cut, you need to build a "form" that gives the mount a professional, rounded appearance.

1. Attach the skull plate to the plaque temporarily to check the height.
2. If the profile is too flat, use a small block of wood or a piece of dense floral foam tucked under the skull plate to give it "loft."
3. Wrap the bone and foam core in polyester batting or thin foam padding. Secure this with masking tape. This creates a smooth transition from the antler bases to the plaque, mimicking the forehead of the animal.

Step 4: Leather Wrapping and Upholstery

The upholstery phase differentiates a "garage mount" from a professional trophy. The leather must be stretched tight to eliminate wrinkles.

1. Cut a piece of leather or vinyl roughly 3 inches larger than the skull plate on all sides.
2. Cut two small holes or "slits" in the leather where the antlers will protrude. Ensure these holes are slightly smaller than the antler bases for a snug fit.
3. Slide the leather over the antlers.
4. Starting at the top center, pull the leather tight toward the back of the plaque and secure it with a staple or tack. Repeat this at the bottom center, then the sides.
5. Work around the perimeter, creating small, uniform pleats where the leather bunches. Fold these pleats so they face downward to remain less visible.

Step 5: Final Mounting and Finishing

1. Align the leather-wrapped assembly onto the wooden plaque.
2. Drive the main mounting screws through the pre-drilled pilot holes in the bone and into the wood.
3. Install decorative upholstery tacks around the edge of the leather to hide the staples and provide a classic aesthetic.
4. Wipe the antlers with a light coat of linseed oil or a dedicated antler restorer to bring back the natural luster.

Technical Specifications for Mounting Methods

Selecting the correct mounting style depends on the condition of the skull and the desired aesthetic. Use the following table to determine which method suits your specific trophy.

Troubleshooting Common Taxidermy Failures

Even with careful preparation, environmental factors or biological remnants can compromise a mount over time. Address these issues immediately to preserve the trophy.

• Issue: Persistent Odor or Grease Leaking

  
  
  
  • Root Cause: Residual fat trapped inside the porous bone structure (the diploë layer) was not fully degreased during the simmering phase.
  • Actionable Fix: Remove the leather and plaque. Submerge the skull plate in white gas or high-grade acetone for 24 hours to draw out the oils. Re-whiten with peroxide and reassemble.

• Issue: Antlers are Loose or "Wobbling"

  
  
  
  • Root Cause: The screws were driven into soft, punky bone or the pilot holes were stripped during installation.
  • Actionable Fix: Remove the screws and fill the holes in the bone with a two-part epoxy putty. Once the putty is partially cured, re-drive the screws. The epoxy will harden around the threads, creating a permanent bond.

• Issue: Leather is Bunching or Wrinkling at the Bases

  
  
  
  • Root Cause: The leather was not "stretched on the bias" or the holes for the antlers were cut too large.
  • Actionable Fix: Use a heat gun or hair dryer to slightly warm the leather, making it more pliable. Pull the slack toward the back of the mount and re-staple. If the hole is too large, use a decorative braided cord (gimp) around the antler base to hide the gap.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I mount antlers that have been sitting outside for a year?

Yes, but "weathered" antlers often require restoration. Sun-bleached antlers should be cleaned with a stiff brush and then stained with a potassium permanganate solution or a wood-based oil stain to restore the natural mahogany tones before mounting.

What is the best wood for an antler plaque?

Hardwoods such as Black Walnut or White Oak are preferred because they hold screw threads more securely than softwoods like Pine. Hardwoods also provide the necessary weight to counterbalance large antlers, preventing the mount from tilting on the wall.

Is it necessary to boil the skull plate?

You should never use a rolling boil, as this breaks down the collagen in the bone and makes it chalky. A gentle simmer at approximately 180°F (82°C) is sufficient to loosen tissue without compromising the structural integrity of the skull plate.

How do I hang a heavy mount like an Elk or Moose?

For large antler sets, a single nail is insufficient. Use a heavy-duty "French Cleat" system or a 50-pound rated wire. Ensure the mounting hardware is screwed directly into a wall stud rather than just the drywall to prevent the mount from falling.

Elevate Your Trophy Room

Transforming your harvest into a professional-grade mount is a rewarding way to honor the animal and the hunt. By applying these technical taxidermy standards, you ensure your display remains a centerpiece of your home for generations.